After the events of last night we decided that we needed some help talking our way out of uncomfortable social situations, so we headed off to Blarney Castle to hopefully gain the gift of eloquence. The romance of kissing the Blarney Stone and ticking off one of the apparently 99 things to do before you die is lost a little when you have to queue up for about 25 mins first. What a lot of people don't realise is that the stone is actually low down in a gap, so to kiss it properly you have to lie on your back, bend back even further and kiss the bottom stone, the actual Blarney Stone, and avoid kissing the stones above it as they're just rubble, which sounds obvious but most tourists I saw (ok, three, but I only watched four people kiss it) got it wrong. After the castle we wandered around the poisonous garden in the grounds, with a selection of plants with a variety of negative effects on the human body, including foxglove (yep, poisonous!), absinthe, marijuana, and poison ivy.
After lunch in a little village called Fastnet (after a fishing net, not some geeky homage) we headed down to Mizen Head, which is the southern most point of the Irish mainland. The visitor centre was pretty interesting but unfortunately the 100 year old bridge across to the actual point was being rebuilt and so we couldn't get down. Next stop was Killarney and after driving through some pretty rugged (and wet) landscape in the national park, we were up early the next morning for a walk through the park. Starting at the Torc waterfall, where I showed Joanne how to take some long exposures of the falls, we headed through the park, down to the edge of the loch and then to the quite impressive Muckross House. Unfortunately the damp weather meant that the views weren't too impressive although we found an enormous tree which was probably a few hundred years old.
Next stop was Ennis, where we were spending the night and in the evening we headed down to the coast hoping to see some dolphins off the coast but with no luck we headed back home through probably the worst rainstorm all trip. The next morning we headed up the coast to the Cliffs of Moher, which are in the running as one of the new Natural Wonders of the World, and although the cliffs are very impressive, we were hoping for a few walks along the coast but there wasn't much to see once you have seen the cliffs. Apparently they are much more impressive, and you can appreciate the height much more, by going on one of the tour boats but we hadn't planned to do that. The visitor centre is quite cool as it is built back into the hillside and is very eco-friendly but is almost hidden, and definitely looks far smaller than it actually is. Back on the road and we stopped off at the Poulnabrone dolmen, which is another passage tomb and is basically one huge flat rock sat on top of two vertical rocks, situated in the Burren, which is another incredibly rough and rugged terrain, strewn with rocks which have been put to good use in the hundreds of walls separating the various farmlands. But onwards to Rossaveel to catch the ferry across to the largest of the Arran Islands, Inishmore. The largest of three small islands off the west coast, they are one of the few places left were Irish is still natively spoken and has lends its name to the famous wool. After a quick wander around the very small town we decided to have a few drinks in different bars before deciding where to eat. After settling for the American Restaurant (a lot better than it sounds) and choosing our dinner, Joanne went up to order it and, after taking the option to pay before dinner rather than after, we hit a problem. The bar could only take cash payments, which normally wouldn't be a problem, but we didn't have enough cash and the only ATM on the island was in the Spar, which had already closed for the night. After Joanne clutched at straws (“Do you take sterling??”) we carefully counted our pennies and discovered we had enough for one meal but as Joanne wouldn't recognise rule 9 of the International Rules of RoadTrips (“Paper, Scissors, Rock” decides everything), we both had to do without. And again, Joanne decided that even though we had enough money for us both to eat at the fast food place, we didn't as “We don't do fast food.”. Luckily (for her) rule 3 (“Don't prevent Mike from eating.”) was nulled as I was instead able to drink on an empty stomach, though my humour didn't do her patience much service as she dragged me back to the hostel for Super(!) Noodles. As the sun set we headed back out to the small harbour so that I could help Joanne take some long exposure photos of the boats and beach.
Up early next morning to a surprisingly sunshining day and after a quick breakfast we went down to the village to hire a bike from one of the numerous bike vendors. Joanne wanted to try a tandem bike but after we tried those in America, and even though we had a great laugh out there, I was pretty sure that it wouldn't work that well with me and Joanne. But she insisted so the guy let us take one for a quick spin and our feet had barely left the ground and she was squealing that she didn't like it at all!! So with a map in hand we set off on our separate mountain bikes along the coast road, though technically the island is so small every road is a coast road. Our first stop was at a seal colony about 4 miles down the road but we were just slightly too late and the tide had come in, meaning the seals had gone out. At this point I realised that we had nothing for lunch and our route took us nowhere near somewhere that we could buy food so Joanne sat at a picnic table while I cycled back in to town to get some food for lunch. As its been years since I've been on a bike and I've lost a bit of fitness in the last few months, I pushed too hard on the bike and had to stop for a while so I could get my breath back and hopefully not pass out! But cycling around the island (at Joanne's pace!) was quite relaxing and we stopped at the Seven Churches ruins, a beautiful beach, went to the furthest tip of the island and back to town for a quick ice cream before jumping back on the boat to the mainland.
Back on the road and we headed up to our final city, Galway, and after some desperately needed showers we headed to quite a smart bar recommended by the hostel After a great dinner we started our own pub crawl, stopping in a number of bars ranging from a very small snug to a surprisingly large bar with a very good live traditional Irish band. The next morning we had a wander around the centre of Galway and then headed off to Salthill, part of Galway right on the coast. On our way there we decided to walk down a long causeway and check out the little island on the end of it with a lighthouse on it. After walking for ages along the causeway we reach a big sign and an even bigger gate that won't let us past, which didn't impress either of us. As we walked from the causeway to Salthill, I suddenly realised that I hadn't “said a word in such a long time” and Joanne was visibly disappointed as she realised that the last 10 minutes of blissful silence had abruptly ended. But Salthill was a nice little area, if a little bland, and after lunch we got a bus back to town and stopped at the Spanish Arch, the last remaining piece of the wall built in the 1500's to protect the town's quays.
Unfortunately the rain started again so we were back in the car and this time Joanne was driving to Westport, again through some pretty wet weather. As we were due to meet mum and dad in our final stop at Westport, they had agreed to pay for a night for us in the same hotel they were staying in. Between roadtrips and caravan trips this was the first time I had actually seen mum and dad since I got the good news from the doc, so it was good to see them again and to celebrate they took us out for dinner at a really good seafood restaurant, Mangos. After a few drinks at the hotel we all headed to bed pretty early as we were all shattered, me and Joanne due to the day cycling and pub crawl the previous night, mum and dad as they had climbed Croagh Patrick the day before and were still recovering. The next day Joanne and I had a wander around Westport town before meeting up with mum and dad and jumping on another ferry across to Clare Island this time, another small fishing island off the west coast. Dad frequently goes fishing off here so actually knew quite a few of the tiny population and we went for lunch in the pub, stopped at the wreck of one of the old ferries that grounded on the island during some really bad weather. Back in to town and Joanne and I headed to a hostel for the night (mum & dad's generosity didn't quite stretch to two hotel nights!) while they headed back home. That night was looking like a good sunset so we headed off in the car to see if we could get a good photo of Croagh Patrick in front of the setting sun but as we had no idea where we should be going for a good shot we pretty much failed, however, we did stop at the famine memorial as Joanne wanted some shots of it at night. Built to commemorate the numerous “coffin” ships that left during the famines in Ireland, usually 2/3 of the passengers on these boats died before they reach their destinations in Europe, America and Australia. It is quite a grotesque statue, a sailing ship made of the pained and screaming bodies of the passengers who died, but probably a fitting representation of the horrific conditions on board.
That night I heard possibly the most disgusting snorer ever, he wasn't excessively loud but he made this horrible gurgling noise that actually turned my stomach slightly. I managed to doze off but between him and a guy snoring in the bed next to Joanne (the bed was next to Joanne, not the guy) she didn't get to sleep any time soon which didn't improve her mood for the next morning. Normally I wouldn't care but today we were due to climb Croagh Patrick, 722m (2,533ft) of harsh mountain that legend says in the 5th centruy St. Patrick climbed and spent 40 days fasting at the top, building a church before throwing a silver bell down the side of the mountain, knocking the she-demon Corra from the sky and banishing all the snakes from Ireland. To commemorate this pilgrims (or lunatics?) frequently climb the mountain barefoot (see? Lunatics.) and then recite various religious prayers at the top. We had no plans on doing anything like that, but mum and dad had built it up as quite a difficult climb and insisted that we buy walking sticks from the “entrepreneur” at the bottom before heading up. I christened mine “Mr. Stick” and after much insistence, Joanne named hers “Piglet”. As this was going to be difficult slog, I nominated myself as “Morale Officer” and attempted to keep Joanne's morale up. I failed. Apparently, seeing how many words you can say in one second is strictly a single player game, singing Hokey Cokey using the words “Croagh-y Patrick” doesn't impress her, nor does any of my singing, apparently “100 Green Bottles” is now a silent song and I am to always “talk inside my head.” But we made it up to the top and enjoyed the slightly misty views before heading back down before the rain arrived, though descending required even more concentration trying not to slide on the loose rocks. I tried to be a gentleman and give Mr. Stick to an American girl who wasn't really enjoying coming down, though apparently saying “Its ok, I'm not really using it.” is patronising to her, according to Joanne. Either way, Mr. Stick came home with me.
But arriving back in the car park marked the end of our hike and our entire trip, as the only thing left was to drive home, and have another much needed shower. It was a great trip and contrary to popular expectations we barely fought at all. Ok, a little. Ok, just a few times. Ok, pretty much all the time, but her navigation sucks!!! But we survived and both were glad we had chosen an Irish roadtrip over a tacky booze-fuelled holiday in Turkey!! Though it has been great to get back home, to our own beds, and more importantly not having to spend hours together in the same car!!
Next year we're road tripping around Scotland, England and Wales, easy!!!